It started raining the way fatigue creeps in, soft at first, then relentless. The fog thickened on the ridge, swallowing my headlamp beam into a haze as dense as milk. Each white blaze looked like a ghost ahead of me, urging me up toward Campbell Shelter. Thunder rolled somewhere over Catawba Valley, low and guttural, […]
Stealth camping in Great Barrington under a sky that threatened rain but never delivered. I laid out my sleeping pad and bag directly on the grass, no tent, just open air and the possibility of getting soaked. A half gallon of milk, and a flashlight that probably gave away my position to anyone who cared […]
I’d been depressed for almost a year when I arrived at Jenny’s Cabin. Normally I tuck that away, but it has a tendency to resurface in quiet moments. In the empty Airbnb at the start of this hike, and now in the quiet solitude of an off grid cabin where I stopped running from my […]
The Sawyer water filter had been hidden in my backpack since February, when I got off the Florida Trail and disappeared into the digital exile of Cancun. I’d never bothered to backflush it or check its flow rate, and somehow had managed to avoid filtering water for my first thirty miles back on the Appalachian […]
The Appalachian Trail’s shelter system makes a potentially overwhelming journey manageable by breaking it up into small segments. Each day becomes simple, just make it to the next shelter. One after another. Until you reach your destination, whatever or wherever that might actually be. Wiley Shelter surprised me with its nonexistent mice population, hosting only […]
Seventeen dollars and a train ride out of New York City left me in Pawling, New York. My backpack felt light, and I floated out of town, feet barely skimming the asphalt. After too many months sedentary in Mexico, staring at a laptop and trying to build a future, it felt good to be moving […]
I woke up in an empty Airbnb ready to do something else, booking the cheapest flight I could find. 24 hours later I landed in Newark, with the vague plan of hiking the Appalachian Trail north into Massachusetts. With no definite plan, there’s nowhere to go, nothing to do. I drifted, taking the AirTrain in […]
I came to the Appalachian Trail the way most people come to bad decisions, desperate and convinced I was being clever. The plan was simple. Walk twenty-two hundred miles, burn fat all day, emerge transformed. My body had become a stranger to me, soft and apologetic, and I figured the trail would carve away everything […]
In 2010, I stood at the edge of a truth I couldn’t ignore. Alcohol was taking away pieces of my life, leaving behind a landscape I barely recognized. The morning light filtered through my apartment window, illuminating empty bottles and broken dreams that had become unwelcome companions. I knew then that without change, I wouldn’t […]
The pen felt foreign between my bandaged fingers, like trying to thread a needle wearing winter gloves. I stared at the blank page of my trail journal, the one constant companion that had traveled with me through five years of seasons. The paper remained stubbornly empty while my thoughts churned like whitewater over unseen stones. […]